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Surfing at Mulki
Submitted by aditi on 11 March, 2019 - 20:38
The sea was sea
First day I thought it was just a sea.
Second day thought it was rough.
Third day I thought it was gentle.
But the sea was sea all the three days.
I got to know it's not always about the sea.
It is and about my understanding about the sea.
It was also about my ease with my surfing board
It was also about my own apprehension with the board and the water.
It was also about my understanding.
The sea was sea all the three days.
I was struggling to ride on the board. My instructor asked me "what goes in your mind, when you are just about to stand on the board?"
I said " the neck and head injury".
And my journey started to understand the board and the sea and waves and myself.
I experienced that even if the wave is high and I was toppling badly, I did not get hurt!
Hmmm Eureka, It does not hurt as I had imagined and made images about my surfing board.
I freed myself
I surfed last day...I glided on the wave...The sea was same, but I was not same. I made friends with the waves, the board and falling in the water! And the sea was same.
And a session with Krishna on Surfing to know his journey - At the age of 13 started surfing, Didn't get any formal education, Didn't learn to go to office, Learnt to learn what he loved and that is Surfing. He love being outdoors and now making living by being in sea, training others. Three rules for him - Give your 100 , Discipline, and Remember why are you doing this?
He shared a bit about Surfing swami - Give to live. Desire to share, to give and that's about Surfing Swami foundation as community.
And collective wisdom of people traveling with us added value to the whole trip. It was not just about surfing but a lot more about various aspects of sea.
Aqua plants with Vaibhavi - Algae gives oxygen back, lives on carbon dioxide, sponges tissues, air channels, grown in water, long and thin, photosynthesis, underwater, dissolve oxygen in water,
Steam Trains with Twesha - How does engine works? Fossil fuel, energy, atoms of hydrogen , oxygen and carbon. Why we need rails? Why not tyres?
Science of surfing with Dhrupad - Why waves come parallel to the shore? Do waves travel - come and go? Waves, high tide, low tide
Marine life with Davin - what fishes eats? Fruit chain in ocean, Earliest mammals, Invertebrates like Jelly fish, Vertebrae creatures, Adapted to see under water, And cartilaginous species with jaws, bony fishes, amphibians, mammals, 230 million documented marine life, various level in sea - upper surface, middles and then trenches.
Weather with Advik - humidity is water in the atmosphere and precipitation is rain on the ground? How is the temperature measured?
Questioning with Ratnesh - To clarify, to ponder, to explore, to know unknown...what, why, where, how, how else? Knowledge, Comprehension, Application, Synthesis...
I got to know
Need to paddle as long as the wave is taking me.
How a wave forms. The water is pushed up the slope and rises and falls.
Parts of board. Deck, tail, nose, rails, leash and fin.
Keep balance by bending knees.
Change pressure in the legs to turn the board.
What are rip currents? A place where all the water that has come is going back to the ocean.
How to stand up on the board properly.
I understood that bending my knees gets me balance.
Tides effect the size of the waves.
Moon causes water being pulled back in the ocean and coming towards the shore.
I was using balance to start on the board and ride it.
I was alert of other surfers coming at me.
Using my speed to catch the wave.
Used my strength and stamina to paddle more and keep taking waves.
Why couldn’t I pop up in time? I was not paddling enough that the wave was taking me and I just went over it.
Why didn’t I take big waves? I was scared of getting hurt really badly.
Why was my board doing a nose dive? Because my weight was on the front of my board and not in the centre.
Why was my board tilting? My body was not on the centre.
Why couldn’t my board turn like the pro’s? Mine was not a hard board and was made out of foam, I also couldn’t bend down so much.
Why was my leash getting stuck in my legs? It was facing inside to my other leg, not out where there was space.
What if the surf board was half your size?
What if there was a motor on the surf board?
What if we ride on our belly’s?
What if I attached wings?
What if it was a capsule?
And I evaluated
Is surfing better than skiing?
Will it help me with my balance?
Is the board easier to handle than a snowboard?
Would I do better next time or worse?
What would make me a better surfer?
Will this experience help me to strengthen my mind?